Aloor Dom aar Phulko Luchee
Bhaate Bhaat , Chorchori aar Bhaaja
Shorshe Ilish holo maacher Raja
Kosha Mangsho aar Polaw holo Robibaar er Khaoa
Doi-Mishti-Chatni r shathe
Shesh hoye Bangali r Paat Pere Khaoa
People connect to their cultural or ethnic group through similar food patterns. Immigrants/migrants often use food as a means of retaining their cultural identity. People from different cultural backgrounds eat different foods. The ingredients, methods of preparation, preservation techniques, and types of food eaten at different meals vary among cultures. The area in which families live and where their ancestors originated influence food likes and dislikes. These food preferences result in patterns of food choices within a cultural or regional group.
Food items themselves have meaning attached to them. One particular recipe, one particular sweet dish, one particular fruit can associate with not just a particular season but also a festival, a ceremony or a ritual. People from that cultural background will instantly connect with it and become nostalgic.
Food is the medium for depicting the emotional, ceremonial and ritual universe of people. It is a realm where, having already experienced the pleasures of preparing, presenting and partaking, one has subsequently made it into a versatile medium for both spiritual and artistic creativity, a metaphor for diverse human experiences. The traditional life of Bengal is rich in form, ritual and aestheticism. In sacred and secular ceremonies, Bengalis have invested food with intricate symbolic significance.
This delicious connection between Bengalis and Food was beautifully put forward by some wonderful and knowledgeable guests in “Paat Pere Khaoa” an Adda on History of food of CR Park on 25th November 2020. It was organized by the Neighbourhood Diaries, a Shapno Ekhon initiative, which is creating a platform to connect people to the history of C.R Park specially by involving the children who are getting an opportunity to know their neighborhood and its history.
The adda began with Malabika Majumdar responding to the role played by food in reassertion of cultural Identity of Bengalis displaced from East Pakistan(now Bangladesh) and who came to CR Park, a post partition colony. Malabika Ji explained that people in CR Park have come from both Kolkata and East Bengal. But as there has been a cultural difference between the Epaar Bangla- Opaar Bangla, people of West Bengal and East Bengal found it difficult to mingle with each other whole heartedly and that made the later create an exclusive group who wanted to make a Mini Bengal in CR Park. This also led to making extra efforts to hold on to their food tradition and rituals. Migrants from East Bengal had moved to India leaving everything behind. They worked harder in holding on to their culture and food habits as that kept them connected to their roots. The food was categorically divided as Daily food, Utsab food (festival food) and Muslim Food. The daily food saw the use of mustard oil and more of green chilies with less use sugar and preparation of Fish and Chochchori on regular basis. Festival food on the other hand saw the use of varieties of rice during Durga Pujo, Lokkhi Pujo and Poush Parbon. Khichuri, Moa and Puli Pithe saw the use of different variety of rice. Those coming from East Bengal, which had a majority of Muslim population many Muslim delicacies also found place in their platter such as Dhakai Paratha, Korma, Rezala, to name a few.
One of the early residents of CR Park Mr. Ashish Ghosh happily shared his memories of some earliest shops that opened in the markets of CR Park and how food became an integral part of these markets and how they hold a special place even today. Mr. Ghosh shared that many people who were working in Delhi and latter came and settled in CR Park, brought with them some mixture of food and flavor.
Annapurna and Maa Tara Hotel were some earliest food enterprises of the markets of CR Park. These specialized in Bengali food and were a blessing to the Bengali bachelors. Some stared new enterprises but many failed in few years time due to several reasons especially when quality was compromised. But those who survived are doing well even now. Apart from the cooked food shops the market has many vegetable shops and a vibrant fish market. Initially the vegetable shops sold only the typical vegetables of Bengal but over the years they have now started keeping other varieties as well. Fish market has also seen some changes but is still primarily Bengali. The shops in the markets also sell items which were initially prepared in all Bengali homes such as Bori and Kashundi, Pithe and Puli. Though we are slowly loosing the ritual of preparing them at home, they have found a different way to reach our home.
Mr. Ashish also expressed that Bengali food has today achieved a brand name and this is a major shift. Today people from other region who are in Delhi recognize Bengali food and many associate the CR Park markets with it. People visit these markets to eat Bengali food. In fact though Market Number 2 has now become multi cuisine but the foundation is still Bengali.
Mr. Swapan Majumdar took us through his journey of starting and expanding Swapan Caterers. As a young man who came to Delhi to find a job and then decided to open a shop of singara and kochuri and sweets with an investment of Rs. 245/- to get a shop, facing resistance from already existing shops who tried to discourage him by creating obstacles, Mr. Swapan did not give up or give in. In fact he went on from delivering from home to home, started to keep more items, learning to prepare new items, asking people to taste and give their opinion , improving upon them, went on to make a hotel and to becoming a well known caterer. He shared how he has learnt so much in his journey of life, how he introduced the use of candles to keep food warm and how even today he makes sweets and enjoys doing so. Today he feels that people’s tastes and therefore demands have changed. He is catering to the changes but also maintaining his identity as a caterer who specializes in Bengali cuisine with his famous Kochur Shaag and Sorshe Maach.
And then there a was beautiful poetic journey by Mrs. Ruma Ghosh who took us to Kashmere Gate, another predominantly Bengali populated area, where she was born and brought up. She beautifully interlaced her memories of childhood days and how growing up in a mixed culture she enjoyed luchee being replaced by Bedami Puri, Kochuri served with aaloo ki Sabji, Chaat-Pakori and Kolmi Vara. But the home food was predominantly Bengali. Fish and Mutton used to be a regular feature, which actually came from Jama Mazjid. Durga Pujo was fun with Anand Mela, which started in Kashmere Gate and later came to CR Park.
We were enriched by the initiative and the amazing journey of two very enthusiastic Home Chefs.
Mrs. Sharmila Sinha whose initiative is named as “Luchee”, is trying to bring back old traditional food. She emphasized that food has a strong link with bio-diversity and we have festivals to mark the use of food and fruits as per the season. Though these days all varieties of fruits and vegetables are available round the year but our traditional practices show us the significance of seasonal fruits and vegetables. CR Park is a place where variety of vegetables, fish, fruits and spices are available. The markets also have variety of food and sweet stalls and shops. Ghugni, a speciality of the Bengalis, is available in CR Park market only. In fact I too have not found it anywhere else. She also talks about the influences of Muslims in Bengali Cuisines especially amongst the East Bengalis. Food as we know is always influenced by the several factors-the climatic condition, the geographical location, the diversity in the local population to name a few.
She feels that due to lack space, time and labour, the therapeutic culture of giving Bori or preparing Kashundi is getting lost but it is good that they are now available in the markets. On the other hand she feels happy to find that many young people are showing interest in becoming Home Chefs and are working towards restoring their food culture.
Poushali Mullick, a young enthusiastic home chef with an initiative named “Pinch of Bong” creates a blend of tradition and modernity. Inspired by her mother she offers a fixed menu to her customers and people from different walks of life join in to enjoy the delicious food and enter into a lively conversation even with people whom they have never met before. Food brings them together and many become good friends. Poushali found that people are interested in Bengali food and if a little twist is added, a small improvisation is made in the traditional recipe, it brings a delicious change. She is keen to introduce new and simple recipies and is looking forward to invite people at her home to get taste of Pinch of Bong.
Finally an interesting conversation took place as the two home chefs shared their thoughts about what made them to take the initiative of Luchee and Pinch of Bong.
Mrs.Sharmila expressed as to how her friends wanted to know about history of food and how she helped them with their home parties and in 2017 she decided to start Luchee to promote Bengali food, culture and festival. Poushali was of course motivated and inspired by her mother who always used to put the menu for her invited guests and that was a unique way of welcoming them. She also said that though due to the current situation she is doing home delivery but she her heart lies in serving the customers as guests at her home. She is indeed looking forward for the conditions to change.
A question was raised about how the stereotyping of Bengali food are done by many hotels who are serving only a fixed variety of dishes in the name of Bengali cuisine and how it can be changed. It was debated that more home chefs need to come up as experiments and innovations in food are happening in home and not in the hotels and restaurants that prefer to serve one or two staple dishes. Home food in Bengal changes from home to home. We find that every house hold has one or more family recipes that are specialties of that family. So as more home chefs come forward they can bring those special cuisines and thereby add immense variety to the Bengali food.
Adda on Food of CR Park was a lusciously delicious discussion, taking us down the memory lane of the emergence of the food shops in the market and then bringing us to the present where new home chefs are initiating new ways of making Bengali food popular. It will also help in showcasing the rich culture of Bengal.
Koto Sriti Koto Notun Shopno niye
Shesh holo Bangali r Adda
Aaro onek Sriti aar Notun Shopno niye
Abaar Jombe aaro ekta Adda
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